Altitude : 5,947m. (19,506 ft.)
Route : Ferrari Route, Southwest Face
Difficulty : SD sup. (Somewhat difficult, superior) Snow and ice climbing, with an average slope of 55º and a final stretch with a slant of 75º.
Suggested climbing season : The best time for climbing is from the first week of June to the second week of October.
Description :
The normal Alpamayo route is one of the most popular in Cordillera Blanca. The Ferrari Route 's level of difficulty changes as the season progresses. As summer begins, it is not unusual to find deep snow, which makes progress and the ascent much more demanding. Obviously, the route to the col and base of the wall is free of anchors and footprints. As weeks go by, snow conditions improve. It begins to solidify, thereby making the ascent less strenuous. It is important to know that is common to find shattered ice during the last few meters at the end of the wall. Unfortunately, ice conditions in this spot do not get better.
First Day : Early in the morning, we will proceed to the northern area of Cordillera Blanca, until we reach Caraz, where the road towards Cashapampa begins. The trip will last approximately three hours. Once in Cashapampa, the muleteers will use donkeys to transport all the loads to the Alpamayo base camp, which will normally take two days. On our first day approaching the mountain, we will walk through a dusty path that borders the Santa Cruz River at the south bank. This zigzagging path finally reaches a plain in the Santa Cruz Valley . The lower areas of the valley are filled with trees, streams, waterfalls and granite towers. We continue walking until we reach an open field in the vicinity of a couple of huts where we can set up camp.
Second Day : On the second day, it is necessary to arrive to the Alpamayo base camp. We continue walking along the south bank of the Santa Cruz River . After a short stretch, we arrive to Lake Cuchillacocha which is bordered by brushwood. Here, we can see a wide variety of birds. Later, we arrive to Lake Jatuncocha , from which we can see Quitaraju's south wall in all its glory. At the other side of the lake, the path becomes less visible on the plains. We now head towards the north bank. We continue our walk on the northern part of the valley, until we reach a lush forest. Later, we take a high, zigzagging road to the Arweicocha Valley . We follow the path almost to the end of the valley, where we find a spectacular quenual forest. Here, at 4,300 m. (14,104 ft.) , Alpamayo and Quitaraju begin to delight us with their beauty. We will spend the night at the Alpamayo base camp.
Third Day : From the base camp we follow a faint trail up to the southeast face of Alpamayo and Quitaraju towards the col formed by these two. At first this trail is lined with shrubs and some trees. As we begin our ascent, vegetation is left behind and we begin to walk on granite rock and a dusty slope. It is easy to lose the trail here. The moraine camp is located approximately 50 meters below the bottom margin of the southeast glacier, where we can set up camp at 4,850 m. (15,908 ft.). The journey between the base camp and the moraine camp is not complicated in terms of technique. Crossing while carrying heavy baggage presents some difficulties, so our porters will readily provide assistance at this point and during the following days.
Fourth Day : We continue through the top of the moraine camp, from which we can appreciate how close the glacier is. Following the route through the rocks, we approach the toe of the glacier, which begins at almost 5,000 m.a.s.l. (16,400 ft.). Generally, we can see a few crevasses and an enormous glacial plain. We continue towards the southeast. The altitude increases as we move through rolling glacial hills. At first, we jump over crevasses and go around others. After walking for a couple of hours, we arrive to one of the most delicate and exposed climbing areas: the Quitaraju-Alpamayo col. We begin by climbing snow on a slant at 30-45º, bordered by gigantic seracs to the south and a granite wall to the southwest. We must come ready to climb a couple of meters of vertical ice. Just before going out onto the col, there is a pass somewhat exposed beneath a threatening serac. Once on the col, the spectacular southwest wall is enough to motivate any climber. The col camp is about 30 meters below this spot, at 5,300 m. (17,384 ft.).
Fifth Day : We begin our ascent to the summit very early in the morning, since it is going to be a long day. There is a difference of 650 m. between the wall and the col camp. We have to go down from the col camp and head southeast towards the Ferrari Route couloir. Before climbing the couloir, a somewhat complicated bergshrund must be overcome. The couloir is approximately 340 m. long, which requires 7-8 climbing pitches in snow and ice. The first pitches are on very solid, resistant snow, which make it possible to firmly place ice axes and crampons. The intermediate pitches have snow as well as ice. It is possible to lock them in place using snow sticks and ice screws. The final pitches are on ice and must be secured using ice screws. A few meters before coming to the end of the couloir, it is not usual to find shattered ice. The summit is simply impressive and beautiful, not only because of the panoramic view of the mountaintops or steep walls around it, but also because of the thin ridge that forms its peak. We come down following the same path, since it is the safest option, so that after rappelling we begin our walk towards the col camp.
Sixth Day : Feeling refreshed after a long day, we begin the return towards the col formed by Quitaraju and Alpamayo to do a couple more rappels. Then, we cross a moderate glacial slope. It will be some time before we are able to see the path down the toe of the glacier, which will lead us to the moraine and the zigzagging trail to the base camp.
Seventh Day : We begin our last day. All the baggage is transported by the muleteers and donkeys, down the same road we took at the beginning of our expedition. This time, however, it will only take us one day to arrive at Cashapampa. We leave the landscape's beauty behind, but the Santa Cruz Valley will join us all the way back to Cashapampa, from where we will take our transportation service back to Huaraz.
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