Altutude : 6,345 m.
(20,850 ft.)
Route : Normal route, Southeast Ridge
Level of difficulty : LD (Little Difficulty). Traverse in snow and short flanks of ice, with an average slope of 30º to 45º sustained and some vertical stretches towards the valleys.
Suggested climbing season : The best time for climbing is from the second week in May to the third week of October.
Duration : 4-day expedition
Description :
The Chopicalqui normal route is one of the most popular in Cordillera Blanca. The southeast ridge's level of difficulty changes as the season progresses. At the start of the summer, it is not uncommon to find deep snow accumulated not only while approaching the large ridge but also on the more vertical areas, which makes the ascent and progress more demanding. Such are the conditions every year before the route is explored. As weeks go by, snow and ice conditions improve, becoming more solid thereby making the journey to the summit less strenuous.
First Day : Early in the morning, we will head to the northern part of Cordillera Blanca, towards Yungay, where the road leading to the Llanganuco Valley begins. This trip is a few hours long. As we enter the valley, we are provided with a view of abundant vegetation and quenual trees. The path zigzags in a certain area between the slopes of huge rock walls of unexplored rocks that are born from the Lakes Llanganuco (Chinancocha and Orconcocha) banks. Their charm stays behind as we approach a spot of indescribable beauty. We are taken aback by the proximity of the majestic glacial peaks surrounding the valley, Huascaran (6,768m) being the most imposing and dominant massif, Yanapaqcha (5,460 m), Huandoy North (6,395 m), Huandoy South's slanted wall (6,000 m), Chacraraju's elongated and vertical South Face (6,112 m) and Chopicalqui, which at times seem unreachable. Once we arrive at the Ancush Valley entrance, the porters will transport all the loads to the Chopicalqui moraine camp. The approach is usually only a few hours long. During our first day of approach, we walk on a path with abundant vegetation on the left side of the valley. The journey provides incredible views of Huascaran South's gigantic glacial massif. We are delighted to see the toe of the glacier of our nearing objective. After a seemingly endless moraine formed by fallen rocks, we arrive at some rock plates large enough to set up camp.
Second Day : From the moraine camp, we and the porters head uphill along a granite plate area, located very close to a rock pillar. This stretch brings us even closer to the glacier entrance, giving us a glimpse of its first crevasses. We have to look for its most vulnerable side in order to be able to cross them. As we start to go up, the steepness continues and we are forced to advance diagonally in order to avoid fatigue due to the prolonged climb. This routine repeats itself during the journey to High Camp which receives us with the magic of these white sentinels which burst with color at sunset filling us with emotion and joy after witnessing this glorious gift that only nature can provide.
Third Day : Going to the summit will lead us on an unavoidable slope on which crevasses will generally complicate our progress, depending on the severity of the winter season. At the beginning, we cross a large, wide ridge which offers us exciting previews momentarily satisfying our curiosity of its nearing summits. The ridge narrows in certain spots, making it difficult to avoid a couple of walls that are traditionally part of the normal route, which stubbornly rise at the end of mixed walls which come from the Ancush and Ulta Valleys. This becomes a very physically and psychologically demanding climb since the vertical walls face the valleys. It is not unusual to have to do some traverses where these long, steep walls come to an end. Feeling very close to the peak, our minds are filled with vertigo and excitement. Before arriving to the summit, the ridge becomes less steep, giving us a well-deserved respite so we can overcome the enormous cornice that crowns this mountain. Generally, it is separated by a crevasse going from side to side. This stretch becomes more complicated if there is a wide mouth, since we would necessarily have to descend in order to then climb a vertical stretch which would place us at the start of the summit cornice's downhill slope. This offers an alluring journey filled with adrenalin, pleasure and magic, because of the magnificent panoramic view of the countless Cordillera Blanca summits and of vertiginous walls. It is a unforgettable spot and a reward for all our efforts. Our descent will be done following the same route and using anchors. After the long walk back, we will return to High Camp, take it down and continue on our journey toward the base camp.
Fourth Day: We begin our last day of descent, in which the porters transport all the loads, heading in the same direction and following the same route taken in the beginning of our expedition. This time, however, it will only take us a short time to come down. We start to leave behind the beauty of the Ancush and Llanganuco Valleys . At the end of the walk back, we will take a transportation service to return to Huaraz.
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