Route: Pitec - Quillcayhuanca Valley - Cayesh Valley - Tullparaju Valley- Punta Huapi - Cojup Valley - Llupa.
Level of Difficulty: Moderately difficult.
Suggested Trekking Season: The best time for doing this trek is from the third week in April until the second week of November.
Duration: 5-day expedition.
Description:
The Quillcayhuanca-Cojup trek is one of the most mysterious in Cordillera Blanca. It takes us through four natural regions: Quechua, Suni or Janca, Puna and Cordillera between 3,100 m. (9,920 ft.) to 5,050 m. (16,160 ft.) of altitude, in the central part of Cordillera Blanca. To begin our trek, we will head to Carhuacpampa. Here, our donkey driver and donkeys will be waiting for us to transport all the loads during a significant part of the circuit. On the way, we will find a large metallic door that upon opening, leads us to a large valley covered with green valleys and quenual trees. A river's clear waters run to the right of our trail. Our journey is rather comfortable and rested, since these valleys are fairly flat with very few slopes. We make progress alongside the numerous streams and waterfalls coming from the upper parts of the valley which bring some glacial peaks to our attention. For the time being, they hide behind immense granite rock walls which rise on each side of the valley.
They journey continues until suddenly a mountain's silhouette peers shyly before us. It's Tullparaju, a well-defined snow and ice pyramid. It will join us along the valley, which will later divide into a Y-shape. At the central point, in the distance, we are able to see a small glacier named Andavite watching every step we take from up high. This land hides a great secret which becomes apparent on one of the slopes of this valley: this wonderful world full of freedom, charm and beauty was once home to a great pre-Inca civilization. Several pre-Inca buildings rise on a moderate slope on the right river bank. Some of them are covered by vegetation; others lose themselves on the upper areas. Deciphering why a pre-Inca culture existed at this altitude is an enigma because of the unusual location. Just being near this spot fills one with energy and encourages us to continue uncovering other mysteries in this magical place.
We arrive at a great hill that marks the division of the two valleys. We observe this as well as the construction of pre-Inca andenes , cultivated staircase-like areas, which look deteriorated due to the passage of time. This is evidence that local inhabitants managed to harvest crops at over 4,000 m.a.s.l.(12,800 ft.), where the climate is usually very cold, successfully overcoming the challenge of adapting crops to adverse weather conditions. A rustic bridge invites us to walk into the Cayesh Valley , located on the upper part of the andenes . Arriving at this place is really gratifying due to the sense of freedom one breathes. We share it with a noisy river that flows quickly trying to catch up to the calm greenness of the Quillcayhuanca Valley, which once again fills our hearts with joy by putting majestic, imposing snow and ice walls that rise surrounding the valley like protective sentinels of the enigmatic secrets of this wonderful spot. The Cayesh glacier's kingdom peers fearfully at the end of the valley, momentarily trying to hide behind the faint clouds wondering by. Some waterfalls welcome us jumping joyfully as they playfully come down vertical rock walls, bursting into laughter upon touching the base.
The journey to the valley presents abundant vegetation that sometimes makes our walk less comfortable. However, the desire to meet the king invades our senses, filling us with energy and strength to continue our adventure, which is unexpectedly joined by the flight of the Andean condor, which fills with color and charm the blue skies of the mountain range, providing us an unsurpassed view that can only be witnessed in the South American Andes. Encouraged by our experience, we continue on the last slope which leads us to a small looking-glass where the Cayesh Glacier is outlined. Coincidentally, it appears before us, a sleek rock figure bearing a crown worthy of kings. We have difficulty taking our eyes away from its captivating beauty. We are filled with tender emotions which become more intense as the sunset sets its white cloak ablaze. Filled with satisfaction, we go down toward the Tullparaju Valley .
This valley shelters three splendid ice giants that bring joy and color to this marvelous natural refuge. Tullparaju displays a pyramid-shaped gown while Pucaranra and Chinchay form striking glacial masses filled with vertical rock and ice walls that rise sometimes wanting to touch the heavens or trying to see their own reflection in Tullpacocha and Cuchillacocha Lakes' peaceful waters. Both are constantly flowing with the purity which springs forth from these glacial hearts and the beauty manifesting itself in its waters.
Every step taken in the slopes leads us away from them and guides us towards small, watery mirrors on a small plain which provides wonderful views of the surrounding mountains. Our camp's altitude allows us to enjoy a clear sunset and an exciting scene that paints the glacial masses and their vertical walls with bright colors. However, this place that can also fill us with panic and fear due to the deafening noises coming from Pucaranra, as it casts enormous masses of ice down its slopes, which collide against the rock in their vertiginous fall.
Now it becomes clear that the pass is very near. We are filled with impatience, wishing we had already arrived. The approach route there takes us first over rocky terrain and later across a slope filled with pebbles. This area, as well as Huapi Pass at 5,060 m.a.s.l (16,194 ft.), tends to be covered with snow at the start of the season. We are met with a gratifying surprise as we find ourselves surrounded by majestic white sentinels rising vigorously to show their greatness, verticality and enigmatic beauty delighting our eyes and other senses. These emotions will surely remain etched in our minds and hearts in detailed. This is how Cordillera Blanca's magic will endure in spite of the passage of time.
The marked slopes take us to the vicinity of Lake Palcacocha which displays in its peaceful waters the enormous reflection of the astounding peak that rules over the Cojup Valley, curvilinear Palcaraju, which seems to embrace this wonderfully peaceful place with its long limbs. The descent leads us on a long valley covered by abundant vegetation and gigantic blocks of stone that try to obstruct a noisy river's path, which feeds its current with clear waters from melting glaciers. Undoubtedly, it seems nature will never stop offering rewarding surprises. This is how we arrive to a small lake where we can enjoy a beautiful sunset and a restful afternoon devoted to trout fishing. After this, we start the last hours of our expedition which take us to the Cojup Valley entrance, from where we will start our return trip to Huaraz.
First Day : Huaraz - Cochapampa -Quillcayhuanca Valley
Second Day: Quillcayhuanca Valley - Cayesh Valley - Quillcayhuanca Valley.
Third Day: Quillcayhuanca Valley -Yupanapampa Valley - Lake Cuchillacocha- Vallapampa.
Fourth Day: Vallapampa - Huapi Pass - Cojup Valley - Lake Millucocha .
Fifth Day: Lake Millucocha - Huaraz.
Sixth Day: Rest day. (Arrangements can be made for those interested in keeping or omitting this day. Interesting alternatives are available.)
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