Altitude : 6,034m. (19,792 ft.)
Route : Normal route, northwestern ridge
Level of difficulty : SD (Somewhat Difficult) Snow climbing and short icy stretches. It has an average inclination between 30º and 45º, with some technical sections depending on the season. It is fairly common to encounter changes in weather conditions even during the dry season. Heavy clouds may cover the route occasionally decreasing visibility in this immense glacial mass. Being familiar with this mountain's peculiar characteristics is fundamental to reach the summit.
Suggested climbing season : The best time for climbing is from the second week of May until the second week of October.
Duration : 4-day expedition
Description :
The normal Tocllaraju route is one of the most popular in Cordillera Blanca. The northwestern ridge changes its level of difficulty as the season progresses. At the beginning of the summer, it is not unusual to find deep snow, accumulated on the way to the summit as well as on the wide ridge which makes progress and the ascent much more demanding. Obviously, the route is free of anchors which are necessary in certain areas. Depending on the severity of the winter season, we might find small vertical ice walls. Near the end, we will reach a 70-meter ramp at an incline of 60º which we will have to climb and then rappel. As weeks go by, snow and ice conditions improve. They begin to solidify, thereby making the ascent less strenuous. However, strong gusts of wind may take us by surprise on this ridge. It is important to highlight that it is customary for the route on this mountain to change several times during the season since crevasses begin to open.
First Day : Early in the morning, we will make our way to the northern area of Cordillera Blanca, to a small town called Paltay, where we will take a detour east to where the road to Collon, another small town, begins. The trip lasts a little over an hour. Collon is the starting point for our walk toward the Ishinca Valley , from which muleteers will use donkeys to transport all the loads to the Ishinca base camp. The road leading us into the valley brings us to a quenual forest found in the lower parts of granite towers. A noisy river flows down the middle of this wooded area. Along the way, we find numerous streams and waterfalls emerging from the upper parts of the valley. We continue walking until we reach an open field. In the distance we can see a long slope and Tocllaraju in the background. The Ishinca base camp, at 4,300 m. (14,104 ft.) , is located at the end of the slope. The walk to this place will take a few hours.
Second Day : We continue our ascent now with the assistance of porters. We leave the base camp and continue until High Camp, at 5,150 m. (16,852 ft.) , along a path that heads east in a straight direction. It moves up directly and almost with no curves on Tocllaraju's northeastern slope towards Lake Tocllacocha . We follow a zigzagging path on this same slope. At the end of this path, there is a rock moraine which reaches the beginning of the toe of the glacier. Its smooth snow slope comes to High Camp, which is located on a great plain at the foot of Tocllaraju's west face. Here, certain spots are more protected from the wind than others, providing a fascinating view of the surrounding peaks and a marvelous amphitheater at dusk.
Third Day : Our journey to reach the summit begins before the break of dawn. We cross an open field covered in snow and a prolonged slope. We will try to avoid existing crevasses in this vast glacier, keeping in mind that its conditions vary from year to year. Our journey brings us to the base of the majestic west face of the mountain. From here, we can see a great crevasse which is the main obstacle during each climbing season, since after crossing it, we will encounter a vertical ice wall some meters long. After overcoming it, we will find ourselves at the entrance of the northwestern ridge, which is wide enough to house crevasses and snow bridges. The slopes lead us to a great mushroom which forms the summit, inviting us to conquer its bergshrund as well as a 50-meter wall with an inclination of 55°. The last 20 meters are the most vertical and exposed, since there are air pockets within the ice which burst when they come in contact with the tools. Once this part is completed, the slope decreases and we find ourselves before the highest point in the mountain. The summit is simply impressive and beautiful, not only because of the magnificent panoramic view of Cordillera Blanca but also because of the steep walls on some of the peaks. This scene and the sense of accomplishment can only be fully appreciated when experienced personally.
Anchoring points will be set up for our descent. After the long walk back to High Camp and putting away all the materials, we continue on our way back to the base camp.
Fourth Day : We begin our last day of descent. All the loads will be transported by the muleteers and their donkeys, following the same direction and path we took at the beginning of our expedition. This time, however, it will take us a few hours less. We continue walking down towards the Ishinca Valley entrance. This is the last day of our journey and we start leaving behind the landscape's beauty. At the end of our walk, we return to Collon, the town which welcomed us on our first day. Here, we will take transportation service that will take us back to Huaraz.
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